![]() ![]() Gu, the chef, was nearing retirement age the lease was up and the Gu brand would live on at Krog Street Market, where the chef’s daughter, Yvonne Gu Khan, oversees a counter specializing in the restaurant’s famous dumplings. 2015, Yiquan Gu and his family decided to close Gu’s Bistro, which they’d opened five years before just outside the Perimeter on Buford Highway. I find her combination of physical and mental nourishment irresistible, and the obvious success of this young business gives me faith that-given enough moxie and goodwill-the good can triumph over the mediocre. But in the back, there’s also a large production facility, where Imerman’s staff assembles the above-mentioned dishes in addition to distinctive shelf-stable products sold on the premises as well as in local groceries: cumin-scented cauliflower Bolognese, various soups and dressings. ![]() Your first impression is of a calm respite with two distinct zones: one set up like a living room with books to read and comfy rugs to muffle the sounds the other more commercial but still peaceful and communal, with a counter for ordering and a handful of grab-and-go items. There’s more to this tiny whitewashed building than meets the eye. Not denying the body what it craves is her philosophy, so on her daily menus, you can find French fries and latkes-in addition to things like rotisserie chicken (or cauliflower), salmon pitas with lemony labneh, shakshuka, and “brekkie bowls” with quinoa, avocado, and soft-boiled eggs. Born Jewish in South Africa and raised in Atlanta, the young owner is a proponent of intuitive or mindful eating. Kesler Imerman calls her adorable spot off Cheshire Bridge Road a “holistic” cafe- I call it a joyous refuge from the vicissitudes of everyday life. There remain, at Bacchanalia, no false steps. Wine pairings are advisable and suave service is a given. Extras such as caviar service, an exquisitely composed plateau de fruits de mer, and a cheese cart nonpareil enhance a restaurant whose seasonal interpretations of familiar proteins always remind me that Georgia is one of the great agricultural states. On a four-course prix-fixe menu, some dishes need never change: The famous crab fritters with Thai essence, citrus, and avocado and the unctuous steak tartare with sesame, daikon, and kimchi have earned their place in the pantheon. Then, Bacchanalia moved a third time, one mile west into a sort of luxury roadhouse on Ellsworth Industrial Boulevard-losing none of its meaning or excellence along the way. The married couple behind it, both chefs, often trucked in produce from their family farm in Cartersville to anchor a menu of sensible sophistication. This was, in effect, Bacchanalia’s pantry. Diners en route to their tables walked first through Star Provisions-the most advanced combination of butcher, seafood counter, cheesemonger, bakery, wine store, and gift shop-already in a daze of appreciation. In 1999, a move to a then semi-industrial stretch of Howell Mill Road propelled the restaurant into the world of true fine dining, where its proprietors earned a well-deserved James Beard Award. Photograph above by Bailey in 1993 in a charming Buckhead cottage, the first iteration of Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison’s hugely influential Atlanta restaurant brought much joy to a city where the prevailing style left little room for fresh, local ingredients. (Note that this required a few judgment calls on our part-many of these spots serve beer and cocktails, for instance, but clicking the “Beer” or “Cocktails” buttons below will bring up restaurants with offerings we think are especially ambitious or noteworthy.) We’ll continue making minor adjustments as restaurants close or move, but in the meantime, we hope you’ll have fun digging through this list-and then dining your way across the city.Ĭontributions from Mike Jordan and Christiane Lauterbach We reassess and update this list every couple of years this time around, we’ve added the option to filter the results by what you’re seeking, whether it’s outdoor seating, an unusual wine list, or a specific regional cuisine. everyone? If so, you’ve come to the right place: There is something for everyone on this, Atlanta magazine’s list of the city’s best restaurants, which-presented alphabetically-begins with hearty Venezuelan arepas, ends with the vividly spiced Hyderabadi fare on the menu at Zyka, and ranges in between from reservations-required prix fixe to classic Southern barbecue to swanky date-night wine bars.
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